fabric form and flat pattern cutting pdf

Fabric Form And Flat Pattern Cutting Pdf

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She has also written another book specifically to enable students to extend their knowledge of fabrics and tailored garment cutting: Pattern Cutting for Tailored Jackets. A technical overview of fabrics. A categorisation for designers and pattern cutters.

The development of a garment comprises of different process. Fit is the most important factor leading to the final acceptance or rejection of a garment. Fit must be designed into the original pattern through subtleties in the pattern that provide fullness unobtrusively at appropriate locations to accommodate body bulges in a flattering manner Hudson. Good customized fit is dependent on the pattern drafting incorporating various shapes and proportions of the individual customer.

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To browse Academia. Skip to main content. By using our site, you agree to our collection of information through the use of cookies. To learn more, view our Privacy Policy. Log In Sign Up. Download Free PDF. Ninette Pongo. Elizabeth Obinnim. Download PDF. A short summary of this paper. Patternmaking is the foundation in garment manufacturing and plays an important role in deciding how the final appearance of a garment will look like. This study investigated reasons why dressmakers in the Ho Municipality do not use pattern for cutting out garment designs.

It assessed the importance and challenges associated with the use of flat pattern making and developed strategies to assist dressmakers to overcome the challenges of using flat pattern in constructing garments. The research design adopted was descriptive survey.

Questionnaires and semi-structured interviews as well as observation were employed to gather data. In all, dressmakers out of the in the Ho Municipality were sampled.

The findings of this study provides insight and implications for the leadership of the Ghana National Association of Tailors and dressmakers and management of higher institutions to take a second look at what goes into agreements and training of dressmaking apprentices. Basic pattern drafting should be made part of apprenticeship programs. Today, consumers have become more demanding and always looking for new styles and designs from their designers. Patternmaking is one of the earliest steps in the development of a garment.

This craft has grown into a skilled technical process over the centuries. With the extensive research and standardized sizing; patternmaking took revolutionary step from customization to standardization. Pattern Making can be a 2D or 3D process [2]. Patternmaking is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure.

It is a bridge function between design and production. Cooklin[3] explains that a sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components. Fischer [4] noted that patterns enable the designer to render something flat into something three-dimensional. Drafting patterns may seem very intimidating, but it is an amazing skill that can take the dressmaker to a completely new level of possibilities.

The basic pattern according to Shoben and Ward [5] is the very foundation on which pattern making, fit and design are based. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort. Knowledge in pattern making and the ability to draft patterns for styles chosen are skills that can improve the quality of garments produced for clients.

As fashion changes, the ideal body size and shape also changes, as a result, pattern making has become a major aspect of the fashion world. The rapid output of flat pattern designs, facilitated by slopers, is a useful skill for any fashion designer as it can be used as a means of developing original ideas effectively and efficiently.

A five-piece pattern set, consisting of front and back bodice and skirt and a long sleeve, which represents the dimensions of a specific figure or form constitute the basic pattern set[8]. As a rule, a dressmaker is professionally trained to sew to fit an individual figure. Many of them learntheir trade as apprentices, usually under the tutelage of an established dressmaker.

These apprentices are most often not taught how to make patterns let alone use them. Some also learn the trade in formal school settings. Several fittings are then done to perfect the garment. In the developed countries, most garments are made using commercial patterns by using made to fit all body size patterns except in few cases where individuals order customised garments.

The foundation blocks can be drafted to fit individual figures by using personal measurements instead of standard ones found in size charts[9]. Knowles [10], indicated pattern making, pattern drafting or pattern cutting is the art of designing patterns, and these are custom-fitted basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles are created.

Flat pattern is often referred to as sloper, block, foundation or master pattern. All designers or dressmakers need a block or a sloper to create styles. Commercial patterns are generally printed on tissue or soft paper and sold in packets containing sewing instructions and suggestions for fabric and trim.

Modern patterns are available in a wide range of prices, sizes, styles and sewing skill levels to meet the needs of consumers. Sewing patterns are again graded, to fit either larger or smaller sizes than the original design. Most original designs are made to fit average, standard or ideal figures. This figure according to Armstrong [11] is a form, a figure, a set of measurements, whose silhouette changes at the slightest whim of fashion.

Using this type of patterns increases productivity and makes work easier for the dressmaker. Pattern sizes are also arranged into marker, which is laid on top of layers of fabric and cut. Once the style fits the customer well and it has been approved by the designer, the pattern of that style becomes a block which helps the dressmaker to develop subsequent generations of patterns from it.

Effective and efficient use of flat patterns in dressmaking workshops can help save time, energy and wasting of fabric that comes with freehand cutting and thereby increase productivity. According to Barwick et al. Hodges and Karpova[13], maintains that global forces have shaped the fashion industry into a complex and far-reaching phenomenon. Fashion is dynamic, hence, changes, but its meaning remains unaltered.

Fashion is also a deep cultural expression and aims directly at who we are and how we connect to other people [14]. Fashion could also be a process that is expressed and worn by people and as a material object with a direct link to environment [15]. Layout and cutting of clothes is a multifaceted art in the fashion industry.

This art can be viewed as the process of placing all pattern pieces of a garment style correctly on fabric to ensure economical and sound usage of fabric. The main categories of fashion design are Haute couture, Ready-to-wear and Mass production. The haute couture collection is dedicated to individual customers and is custom sized to fit these customers exactly.

In Ghana a lot of couture sewing is done. Nudelman[16] describes couture as magic, art and detailed. Most fashion designers or dressmakers in Ghana do customised sewing.

This problem of pattern making applies to almost all dressmakers in the country. For the purpose of this study, the geographical scope is limited to the Ho Municipality. Based on these facts, the study was projected to explore reasons why dressmakers do not use patterns for cutting out garments, explore thechallenges that come with this and develop strategies to help these dressmakers overcome the challenges.

Aldrich [18] noted that pattern plays a central role in the fashion designers activities. MacDonald [6] noted that the main tools needed for flat patterninclude; paper made of varying grades, straight pins, paper scissors, straight and curved rules, pencils, tape measure and design from the stylist or the illustrator and so on. Individual pattern pieces are used to cut fabric pieces, which are then assembled and sewn to create wearable garments.

Today, clothing patterns are now mass-produced numbered or lettered for easy understanding. Aldrich[18] indicates that beginners all over the world, be it students who are starting practical pattern drafting and cutting as part of Fashion Degree or Diploma courses, or City and Guilds Examinations start with the use of the basic pattern draft and cutting for individual figures.

She indicated that some garment patterns, particularly in couture design, are constructed by draping on the dress stand. This study aims at creating awareness of the importance of the use of flat pattern making in dressmaking. It specifically explores reasons why dressmakers do not use flat pattern for cutting out and also identify challenges dressmakers face when using flat pattern for cutting out.

The study also sought to develop strategies to overcome the challenges they face when making patterns. The survey strategy is usually associated with the deductive approach. It is most frequently used to answer who, what, where, how much and how many questions [21]. The population of this study comprised of all the registered dressmaking shop owners in the Municipality. The rational for choosing this strategy is to enable the researchers use their judgment to select cases that will best facilitate the answering of questions for the study.

This form of sampling is often used when one wish to select cases that are particularly informative [21]. Samples were clearly defined, identified, chosen objectively and systematically. Sound criteria were used to select samples to avoid errors. The sample included both male and female dressmakers in the municipality. Semi- structured interviews, observation and questionnaire were used in the data collection. The data collection took place between September and December A set of questionnaires were designed and administered by the authors.

The questionnaire consisted mainly of close-ended questions which required the respondents to tick their best option. An Interview schedule was designed based on the research questions to collect data on the knowledge level of pattern making methods if any at all used by dressmakers.

Interviews lead to a high response rate because researchers schedule the interviews in advance and sample participants typically feel obligated to complete the interview. All the interviews were conducted in English and Ewe local language. Observation becomes a scientific tool and a method of data collection for researchers, when it serves a formulated research purpose, is systematically planned, recorded and subjected to checks and controls on validity and reliability [23]-[24].

Observations were made in the dressmaking shops where ongoing cutting and sewing were undertaken to take note on methods dressmakers used in cutting out fabric for sewing. To analyse the data collected, descriptive statistics were used and content analysis done. The total number of respondents aged 46 years and above summed up to This clearly indicates that majority of the dressmakers were within the age group of years.

Figure 1 shows the age distributions.

Fabric, Form and Flat Pattern Cutting

To browse Academia. Skip to main content. By using our site, you agree to our collection of information through the use of cookies. To learn more, view our Privacy Policy. Log In Sign Up. Download Free PDF. Ninette Pongo.

With an ever expanding range available, an understanding of the relationship between fabric, form and pattern shape is now the most important skill a designer has to acquire. No other pattern cutting book considers the effects of individual fabrics and its approach is based on the appraisal of the fabric and body shape. It is fully illustrated and makes use of numerous practical examples. It also takes into account important new developments in fabric — new fabrics, new methods of fabric construction and new fabric finishes. Free block patterns are available online for readers to print out for use in their classes. One of the most challenging aspects of a fashion designer's training is learning how to crate patterns that utilize the characteristics of fabrics.

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relationship between fabric, form and pattern shape is now the most important skill a is the revised and simplified edition of Fabric, Form and Flat Pattern Cutting. Fabrics and Pattern Cutting by Winifred Aldrich Free PDF d0wnl0ad, audio.


[PDF Download] Fabric Form and Flat Pattern Cutting [Download] Online

Fabric, Form and Flat Pattern Cutting. During the past decade, whilst the development of new generic fibres has not markedly increased, the technical engineering of the structure of existing fibres has produced an explosion of new fabrics. Many of these have a quite new appearance and a significantly different handle. Many students are overwhelmed by the infinite creative possibilities in fashion and are daunted by regid technical procedures, yet the relationship beteen garment cut and fabric potential is probably the most important feature of present design skills. This book is an approach to design and flat pattern cutting that is based on the appraisal of the fabric and the body form.

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In sewing and fashion design , a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper , and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use. The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes condensed to the one-word Patternmaking , but it can also be written pattern - making or pattern cutting. A sloper pattern home sewing or block pattern industrial production is a custom-fitted, basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be developed.

Basics of Pattern Making

Creating patterns for clothing production is a skilled practice. The detail and technique behind each pattern ensure that garments are made to specification with a minimal margin of error. For those who are new to fabric patterns, there are many resources and professionals that can assist in the process. Sewport provides an easy search function to filter your requirements and find designers who can take your ideas through to the development stage. This critical stage in development will help you to visualize the fit and decide on the size ranges of your clothing.

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Любой шифр можно взломать - так гласит принцип Бергофского. Она чувствовала себя атеистом, лицом к лицу столкнувшимся с Господом Богом. - Если этот шифр станет общедоступным, - прошептала она, - криптография превратится в мертвую науку. Стратмор кивнул: - Это наименьшая из наших проблем. - Не можем ли мы подкупить Танкадо. Я знаю, он нас ненавидит, но что, если предложить ему несколько миллионов долларов.


Fabrics and Patterns Cutting is the revised and simplified edition of Fabric, Form and Flat Pattern Cutting. It is fully illustrated and makes use of numerous.


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